3D Printing

From CarisMWiki
Jump to: navigation, search

This is a guide for using the Rokit 3DISON H700 3D printer in ICICS X015. WARNING: Do no leave the 3D printer unattended when printing. The 3D printer is a fire hazard as it is unable to stop overheating automatically.

Setup

All related software can be found on Lindor under 'software\3DISON H700\'. Or alternatively [here]

CreatorK

This software can generate g-code from 'stl' files, as well as compile the final binary 'x3g' file that the printer uses.

  1. Download and install 'NewCreatorK_V1.57.19_install.exe' from Lindor.
  2. Refer to pages 16-23 of '3DISON H700 User Manual' for setting up and using CreatorK to print.

Slic3r

This is an optional and superior way to generate the g-code. You still need CreatorK for compiling the final 'x3g' file though.

  1. Download and unzip 'slic3r-mswin-x86-1-2-9a-stable.zip' from Lindor.
  2. Place the unzipped folder 'Slic3r' under Local Disk C: so that the path to the Slic3r folder is 'C:\Slic3r\'.
    NOTE: If you don't do this, you will need to change the path to the custom post-processing script 'H700.vbs' in Slic3r's Print Settings > Output options > Post-processing scripts for each print setting preset (default is 'C:\Slic3r\H700.vbs' after importing the configuration bundle in the next step).
  3. Open Slic3r, ignore the startup wizard, and go to File > Load Config Bundle... and select the latest configuration file (eg. 'H700_Slic3r_config_bundle_2.0.ini') located in the 'Slic3r' folder you unzipped. This will import all the settings, presets and custom g-code necessary to work with the H700.

Configuration File History

Version Details
2.4
  • Fixed PVA filament settings so that it prints without jamming
  • Made 'Interface shells' the norm for print settings. (Used when printing multi material parts with soluble supports)
2.3
  • Added PVA filament
2.2
  • Renamed "Default" print setting to "Normal"
  • Removed "Simple Mode" print setting
2.1
  • Added many more filaments: ABS Blue, Green, Yellow; PLA Black, Red, Silver, Sky Blue, White
  • Removed "...(left/right) only" print settings. You can select the extruder(s) via object settings in the Plater view.
  • Added "SupaFast" print setting (700mm/s max speed)
  • Changed all print settings to include a 10mm brim by default
2.0
  • Created two filaments: ABS White & Black
  • Created "Default (left only)" print setting
  • Created "Default (right only)" print setting
  • Created "3DISON H700" printer with custom start and end gcode

Old configuration files are also on Lindor if necessary.

General Workflow

  1. Prep the STL file and export to Slic3r.
  2. In Slic3r, modify settings as needed and export as G-code file.
    1. Rotation of object. Look for orientation of the object that reduces support material used.
    2. Number of vertical and horizontal shells. 2 and 3 shells respectively for standard printing and up to 5 shells for both if screwing, tapping or bolting is involved.
    3. Infill density. 20% for standard printing and up to 40% for the object that will experience stress.
    4. Brim width. 0mm for a small bottom surface area to avoid filing and up to 10mm for a large bottom surface area to prevent warping.
    5. Support Material. Required if the geometry of the object has major overhangs or bridges.
    6. Extruder First Layer Temperature. 10 degrees higher than the standard printing temperature to improve adhesion to heat bed.
  3. Use NewCreatorK to convert G-code file to x3g file.
  4. Load the x3g file into the SD card and insert the card into the machine.
  5. Perform ‘Standard Leveling’ on the heat bed.
  6. Clean the heat bed with isopropyl alcohol to remove grease.
  7. Spray the heat bed with compressed air to remove dust.
  8. Log your print using the following link on Google Drive here.
  9. Start printing!


Generating G-code

WARNING: G-code generated from NewCreatorK seems to be problematic, with incorrect temperature setting and z-axis home position, as of August 2018. Therefore, it is recommended to generate G-code from Slic3r.

via CreatorK

CreatorK is the software packaged along with the H700. The only documentation for it is the '3DISON H700 User Manual' on Lindor. Please refer to that manual for all operations in CreatorK.

NOTE: It is not recommended to use CreatorK as the G-code being produced by the slicing program may be erroneous.

Pros Cons
  • Is the official dedicated software with a very simple interface
  • Has a selection of presets for different materials
  • Difficult and confusing to change any advanced printing settings
  • Sometimes generates "jumpy" g-code which results in the machine making sudden jumps, missing extrusions, and colliding with the print.
  • Program is slow to load big files and crashes too often


Supported File Types: .stl, .obj (experimental), .dae (experimental)

via Slic3r

This is a nicer and more consistent alternative to CreatorK for generating g-code. Slic3r has many more options and is easily highly customized to help you achieve the perfect print. Derek has already set up the settings, custom g-code and post-processing scripts to make Slic3r work with the H700. Everything should be ready to go after unzipping Slic3r and loading the settings via the configuration file.

Pros Cons
  • Easy access to more advanced options (such as types of supports, brims, layer temperatures, multiple types of speeds)
  • Can add custom g-code and post-processing scripts
  • Open source with a bigger online community than CreatorK
  • 'Preview' mode where you can see exactly what will be printed
  • Can print multiple different parts
  • Always generates smooth g-code
  • Some crashes if overloaded with too many operations at once (still less than CreatorK)
  • Needs some customization to make it work with the H700 (already done by Derek)


Supported File Types: .stl, .obj, .amf, and .xml

Printing With One Extruder

  1. Drag and drop your 3D model(s) into Slic3r with the 'Plater' tab open.
  2. Select print and filament settings from the presets on the right panel in the 'Plater' tab. You can further customize your settings by going into the other tabs after selecting a preset as your base.
  3. For each object, set which extruder to use by selecting it and clicking 'Settings...' on the top ribbon in the 'Plater' tab (or double-clicking on the object) to open object-specific settings.
    • In the settings dialogue that opens up, under Parts > Object Settings > Extruders select the extruder you want to print that object. 1: right extruder. 2: left extruder. NOTE: Do this on the 'Object' level, not the 'Part' level.
  4. Scale, rotate, flip, and duplicate the parts to your needs.
  5. When you're satisfied with the parts' placement and settings, hit 'Export G-code...' on the right panel in the 'Plater' tab (or select Plater > Export G-code...).

Printing With Two Extruders

Separate Objects
  1. Import your 3D models into Slic3r in the same way as when using one extruder.
  2. Select the extruder for each object by selecting it and clicking 'Settings...' on the top ribbon in the 'Plater' tab (or double-clicking on the object) to open object-specific settings.
    • In the settings dialogue that opens up, under Parts > Object Settings > Extruders select the extruder you want to print that object. 1: right extruder. 2: left extruder. NOTE: Do this on the 'Object' level, not the 'Part' level.
  3. After doing this for each object and when you're satisfied with each object's placement and settings, hit 'Export G-code...' on the right panel in the 'Plater' tab (or select Plater > Export G-code...).
Dual Material Object

NOTE: Both halves of your 3D model must share the same origin, otherwise the halves won't line up properly in Slic3r.

  1. Import the first half of your 3D model into Slic3r in the same way as when using one extruder.
  2. Open the object's settings by selecting it and clicking "Settings..." on the top ribbon in the 'Plater' tab (or double-click on the object).
  3. Under the 'Parts' tab, click on the 'Load part...' button and select the second half of your 3D model. It should line up properly with the first half of your model.
  4. For each half of your model, click on its part in the 'Object' hierarchy and specify the extruder you want to print that part, similar to how you select extruders for separate objects. NOTE: Do this on the 'Part' level, not the 'Object' level.
  5. After doing this for both halves and when you're satisfied with the part's placement and settings, hit 'Export G-code...' on the right panel in the 'Plater' tab (or select Plater > Export G-code...).

Generating x3g Binary

This is the file that the printer actually uses.

  1. Drag and drop the g-code file into CreatorK.
  2. Hit the G-CODE> button to generate the 'x3g' file.

Printing

Loading Filament

The H700's 'Filament Loading' functions are located in 'Utilities' > 'Filament Loading'.

  1. In 'Filament Loading', select 'Load Left' or 'Load Right'. Once the nozzle is heated up enough, the LED lights will all glow green and the screen will tell you to take action.
  2. As you insert the filament, press down the black spring block on the side to open a gap between the feeder gear and the pressure wheel for the filament to fit through. Try to keep the filament as straight as possible when loading.
  3. Once you feel you've pushed the filament in as far as possible, release the black spring block and the feeder should grab the filament and start extruding. If the filament doesn't extrude properly, push down the spring block again, pull out the filament, and try again.

Unloading Filament

The H700's 'Filament Loading' functions are located in 'Utilities' > 'Filament Loading'.

  1. In 'Filament Loading', select 'Unload Left' or 'Unload Right'. Once the nozzle is heated up enough, the LED lights will all glow green and the screen will tell you to take action.
  2. Remove the filament by simply tugging up on it.

Before Printing PVA

Before (and after) printing with PVA, flush the nozzle with PLA. This makes sure that there is nothing left in the nozzle (like ABS) to jam up the PVA when you load it. Check out the special instructions for PVA in the Printing Tips and Troubleshooting section.

Printing Files From SD Card

  1. Copy your 'x3g' file onto an SD card.
  2. Insert the SD card into the H700. (Top of right-hand side)
  3. Use the built-in d-pad and LED screen to navigate to the 'Create' option in the top menu.
  4. Navigate to and select your file. As soon as you hit 'OK', the H700 will start preheating and printing.

Logging Prints

For keeping track of machine and material usage, please log every print in the spreadsheet on Google Drive here. Please fill in all of the columns.

Print Failures

If it is still within the first 3 or so layers, there is no need to log the print. But any failures where there is an appreciable amount of material used should still be logged.

Printing Tips and Troubleshooting

Best Operating Temperatures @40mm/s

NOTE: If using a higher feedrate, use a higher temperature.

Material Nozzle Temperature (C) Platform Temperature (C)
ABS 225 130
PLA 205 90
PVA 190 60-130

Preventing Filament Jamming in Extruder

Try not to use the last portion of a filament to prevent jamming in extruder. This can be done by pulling the filament out from the extruder when the filament is nearing its end and replacing with a new roll of filament when the extruder is heated. The reason is because the filaments are usually bent, causing the front-end of a newly inserted filament unable to make contact with the back-end of the old filament, therefore unable to push the old filament out from the extruder.

PVA Special Instructions

Storage

Poly Vinyl Alcohol (PVA) is designed to be soluble in water which makes it excellent support material for otherwise impossible prints. However, this also means the spool is highly sensitive to moisture and must be stored in its Ziploc bag with a silica gel pack whenever it is not printing.

Flushing

Before and after you use PVA, you should flush out the nozzle with PLA. This makes sure that PVA isn't left in the nozzle over time, which can jam the nozzle the next time you use it with a high temperature filament.

Problem: Parts Keep Warping and Lifting Off the Build Platform.

This is a common problem, especially with ABS which has a higher thermal expansion coefficient than PLA. Here are a few solutions you can try and combine to achieve success:

  • Slow down the first layer. The first layer is crucial to all 3D prints; go slow, and get it right. Something around 20mm/s or even 10mm/s will increase adhesion to the platform surface.
  • Decrease the nozzle height. If the nozzle is too far away from the platform, the plastic will not be pressed down very well and you will have weak adhesion.
  • Increase the platform temperature. For ABS: up to 150C. For PLA: up to 90C.
  • Scratch up the platform tape. The slightly rough surface actually greatly aids adhesion. Use something like a steel brush or coarse sandpaper to rough up the platform tape. After continued use, the areas where parts are printed lose their texture and become smooth, so this should be part of regular maintenance.
  • Clean the heat bed using compressed air or isopropyl alcohol. This is to remove dust or grease that may cause first layer to unable to adhere properly to the heat bed.
  • Use Slic3r's 'Brim' feature. Under Print Settings > Skirt and brim > Brim you can specify the thickness of a brim around the first layer of your part (eg. 3mm). This is the most effective solution.
  • Use a raft. Not as elegant as a brim, but it also gets the job done.
  • Avoid sharp corners. If you are designing the part, it is generally good practice to fillet edges and corners anyway. Of course if your design calls for sharp corners, this cannot be avoided and you're best off using a brim or raft.

Problem: The Printer Ignores My GCode's Temperatures

There is an option on the H700 to override any print file's temperatures with the H700's preheat temperatures. This is in fact useful if you are printing and realize you need to change the print temperatures, but don't want to go through the process of regenerating the gcode, converting to x3g, and copying to SD card. You simply change the preheat settings under 'Utilities' > 'Preheat settings'

  • Check if 'Override GCTemp' flag is set. The flag is found in 'Utilities' > 'General Settings' > 'Override GCTemp'.

Problem: Nozzles Are Oozing

This is usually only a problem when doing dual extrusion. We haven't found a surefire solution yet, but the following all help:

  • Set nozzles at the lowest safe temperature. For ABS: 225C. For PLA: 200C. Be careful not to go too low, as you can damage the extruders if the plastic is not melting enough.
  • Avoid crossing perimeters. Slic3r has the option under Print Settings > Layers and perimeters > Quality (slower slicing) to avoid crossing perimeters which means the inactive oozing nozzle should go back and forth over the part less, helping avoid depositing a fat pile of ooze on the side of the part.
  • Try 'Ooze prevention'. Slic3r has a feature under Print Settings > Multiple Extruders > Ooze prevention which cools down the inactive nozzle and also builds a tall skirt to try keep ooze off of the part.
  • Write custom g-code. Under Printer Settings > Custom G-code you can specify a section of g-code which is called just before every tool change by writing in the "Tool change G-code" text box. Perhaps you can think of some clever mechanical solution to stop oozing.

Problem: PVA Keeps Jamming

PVA can be a tricky material to print because it has a narrow range of temperatures and speeds that work. Here are some suggestions for better printing:

  • Ensure extruder fan is on. Since PVA jams when heated over ~200C, it is important that the extruder's cooling fan is operating. You can turn this off and on in the 'Filament Settings' > 'Cooling' > 'Enable' section in Slic3r. Normally 'Enable auto cooling' does the trick.
  • Flush nozzle with PLA before and after. Before loading the PVA, first load a spool of PLA to flush out any previous filament. Then unload the PLA and load the PVA. Once the print is done, unload the PVA and load the PLA to flush out any remaining PVA. Then you presumably want to unload the PLA and load whatever other filament you need for the next print.
  • Run at ~40mm/s or slower. Generally the slower you go with PVA, the more success you'll have.
  • Print at 185-195C. DON'T PRINT ABOVE 200C! Any higher, and you run the danger of pyrolysis which causes the PVA to tar and jam in the nozzle itself. To fix the jam we will likely have to re-drill or replace the nozzle.
  • Test temperature with 'Filament Loading' function. If you have the correct temperature, then when you use the 'Load Right/Left' function the PVA should flow smoothly and uniformly out of the nozzle.

Extras

Controlling H700 from PC

Using CreatorK, it is possible to control the H700 with your PC over USB. Currently, printing files directly from CreatorK over USB is not guaranteed to work, but you can give it a try if you want. The most useful features are jogging the building platform up and down, the extruder back and forth in the XY plane, and setting nozzle and bed temperatures. You can also do all of these operations directly from the built-in controls and LED screen.

Wifi Camera

There is a camera in the printer for monitoring your print from either your laptop or mobile device. Currently it is temporarily on a local wifi network 'ASUS' which can be picked up in X015 or X209. Please refer to pages 35-37 of the '3DISON H700 User Manual' on Lindor for setting up your laptop or mobile device to stream the feed. Below is a brief summary of those instructions.

Camera ID/Name: VSTC695795BWRPY
Password: 888888

Laptop Setup

  1. Download and install 'IP_Camera_Super_Client.exe' found on Lindor in the 3DISON H700 software folder.
  2. Add a new camera using the camera ID and password above.

Mobile Setup

  1. Download and install the 'VsCam' app.
  2. Add a new camera using the camera ID and password above.

Advanced H700 Settings Details

These were sent to Cole in an email from CreatorK support:

"Ditto printing"
Internal test purpose / printing same file using 2 nozzle at the same time / initial setting : off
"override GCTemp"
Internal test purpose / using preheat temperature while printing / initial setting : off
"Pause with heat"
Internal test purpose / maintain the temperatures of nozzle/bed while pausing / initial setting : off
"Heat LEDs"
Turn on RED LED while heating / initial setting : on
"accelerate"
Using acceleration mode while the motor moving / prevent Motor’s Jerks and vibration / initial setting : on
"Extruder hold"
Hold nozzle motor to prevent licking filaments while the extruder travel / initial setting : on
"HBP installed"
Setting Heat Bed plate / initial setting : on
" tool offset sys"
Internal test purpose / setting the new off-set system / initial setting : on
"check SD reads"
Checking errors while reading SD cards / initial setting : off
"P-stop control"
Internal test purpose / function for connecting with other device, internal reserved menu / initial setting : off

H700 Supported G-codes

If you are planning to read or write any custom g-code for the H700, you may want to refer to the following codes:

G0: Rapid Positioning
G1: Coordinated Motion
G2: Clockwise Arc
G3: Counter Clockwise Arc
G4: Dwell
G10: Create Coordinate System Offset from the Absolute one
G20: Use Inches as Units
G21: Use Milimeters as Units
G28: Home given axes to maximum
G53: Set absolute coordinate system
G54: Use coordinate system from G10 P0
G55: Use coordinate system from G10 P1
G56: Use coordinate system from G10 P2
G57: Use coordinate system from G10 P3
G58: Use coordinate system from G10 P4
G59: Use coordinate system from G10 P5
G70: Use Inches as Units
G71: Use Milimeters as Units
G90: Absolute Positioning
G91: Relative Positioning
G92: Define current position on axes
G97: Spindle speed rate
G130: Set given axes potentiometer Value
G161: Home given axes to minimum
G162: Home given axes to maximum
M0: Unconditional Halt, not supported on SD?
M1: Optional Halt, not supported on SD?
M2: End program
M3: Spindle On - Clockwise
M4: Spindle On - Counter Clockwise
M5: Spindle Off
M6: Wait for toolhead to come up to reach (or exceed) temperature
M7: Coolant A on (flood coolant)
M8: Coolant B on (mist coolant)
M9: All Coolant Off
M10: Close Clamp
M11: Open Clamp
M13: Spindle CW and Coolant A On
M14: Spindle CCW and Coolant A On
M17: Enable Motor(s)
M18: Disable Motor(s)
M21: Open Collet
M22: Close Collet
M30: Program Rewind
M40: Change Gear Ratio to 0
M41: Change Gear Ratio to 1
M42: Change Gear Ratio to 2
M43: Change Gear Ratio to 3
M44: Change Gear Ratio to 4
M45: Change Gear Ratio to 5
M46: Change Gear Ratio to 6
M50: Read Spindle Speed
M70: Display Message On Machine
M71: Display Message, Wait For User Button Press
M72: Play a Tone or Song
M73: Manual Set Build %
M74: Start Auto Leveling
M75: Use special Z limit
M76: Start Auto Leveling2
M77: Height Sensing
M78: Fan On/Off
M101: Turn Extruder On, Forward
M102: Turn Extruder On, Reverse
M103: Turn Extruder Off
M104: Set Temperature
M105: Get Temperature
M106: Turn Automated Build Platform (or the Fan, on older models) On
M107: Turn Automated Build Platform (or the Fan, on older models) Off
M108: Set Extruder's Max Speed (R = RPM, P = PWM)
M109: Set Build Platform Temperature
M110: Set Build Chamber Temperature
M111: Set Laser On
M112: Set Laser Off
M126: Valve Open
M127: Valve Close
M128: Get Position
M131: Store Current Position to EEPROM
M132: Load Current Position from EEPROM
M140: Set Build Platform Temperature
M141: Set Chamber Temperature (Ignored)
M142: Set Chamber Holding Pressure (Ignored)
M200: Reset driver
M300: Set Servo 1 Position
M301: Set Servo 2 Position
M310: Start data capture
M311: Stop data capture
M312: Log a note to the data capture store
M320: Acceleration on for subsequent instructions
M321: Acceleration off for subsequent instructions
M322: Pause@ZPos
T0: Set Current Tool 0
T1: Set Current Tool 1

Repair Log

Please include any major repair and maintenance of the Rokit 3D-printer here:

Date Problem Repair Undertaken
June 2018 SD card slot does not latch in SD card properly. SD card slot is replaced with another identical component.
June 2018 No filament is being discharged from extruder. Set screw on the gear of the shaft within the extruder is tighten.
June 2018 Heat Bed is not heating up. Wire of heat bed is extended and connector to heat bed is replaced with a similar component (Molex WM2337-ND).
August 2018 Temperature reading is higher than expected (i.e. showing above 800 degrees Celsius rather than the room temperature). Thermocouple converter (MAX6675) of extruder 1 on the signal distribution board is replaced with another identical component.
August 2018 Intermittent jamming of the filament during extrusion. Temporary solution is to poke the shrunken PTFE tubing within the heat break with a screwdriver.
August 2018 Nozzle has worn out. Nozzle (0.4mm) is replaced with another identical component.

Key Areas of Improvement

  • Replacing the PTFE tube inside the heat break or the heat break itself.
  • Replacing the worn out transparent tape on the heat plate. Require replacement or substitution with Kapton tape or blue painter's tape.
  • Installing a second extruder into the printer.